Author: Aliza

A day trip to Kakinada and the Sri Bhavananarayana Swamy temple

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Ladies entering the inner sanctum of Sri Bhavananarayana Swamy temple.
Ladies entering the inner sanctum of Sri Bhavananarayana Swamy temple.

We spent the day we arrived in the charming city of Rajahmundry just walking around and absorbing the atmosphere, then decided we wanted to get on a bus the next day to Kakinada, to see a bit of the Godavari delta region. We like to have a focus for our excursions, so we chose the ancient temple of Sri Bhavananarayana Swamy. It’s located six kilometers away from the center of  Kakinade, so after getting a late breakfast of idly, sambar and chutney near the Kakinada bus station, we grabbed a rickshaw and headed to the bus station.

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The dog ashram: Arunachala Animal Sanctuary and Rescue Shelter

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Sleeping puppies at the Arunachala Animal Sanctuary and Rescue ShelterBeing here in Tiruvannamalai for a few weeks has given me the chance to do something I wanted to do for a long time:  volunteer at the Arunachala Animal Sanctuary and Rescue Shelter, or the dog ashram, as I call it. It’s a place I first discovered when I came to India in 2009 (my first visit back since 1982), and briefly, its mission is caring for street dogs and other animals that are sick or injured, wild animals included. It’s a no-kill shelter: Every animal who can’t be returned to his or her territory, or who doesn’t get adopted by a human family, is allowed to live at Arunachala Animal Sanctuary for the rest of his or her natural life.

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Another day, another walk: secret temples, an owl and more

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View of Arthanarisvarar Temple from the viewing rock below Skandashram
View of Arthanarisvarar Temple from the viewing rock below Skandashram, very zoomed in. It’s the blue-grey building with the cream-colored tower, perched on the rock & surrounded by trees. Photo by Alan.

From the viewing rock on the way to Skandashram, we kept noticing a small temple to the east of the big Annamalaiyar temple in town. It’s located on top of a subhill on the southeast flank of Annamalai, and any approaches to it are mysteriously shrouded in dense foliage.

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Barefoot walk to Skandashram

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Bare Feet 2

We decided that today we’d try walking up to Skandashram barefoot. That’s the traditional way to ascend to this holy spot, and many (even most) people do it that way. Alan had walked up barefoot many times in the 1970s, but on this visit, we’ve been wearing sandals or shoes everywhere except in the ashram or in temples. So this was going to be an interesting experiment.

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Morning walks

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Walking the bund 2

We’ve developed a regular morning routine here in Tiruvannamalai. We get up early, go to the ashram to meditate, eat a quick breakfast and then head out for a couple of hours, before the heat becomes overwhelming. (On a cloudy day, we can last longer.)

We’re lucky that our apartment is on a small dirt road that’s very close to the open fields south of the ashram – and we’re lucky there still are open fields. The open flat valley, about two kilometers wide, used to be either empty or cultivated. Now it has a lot of big houses on it, and more are under construction.

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Our new place in Tiruvannamalai

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Apartment - the street
The street where we live (for now).

After 10 lovely days in ashram accommodation, we moved today to an apartment we found about a week ago. We’ve arranged to rent it for the month of October, giving us plenty of time to continue what we’ve been doing: taking long walks, meditating at the Sri Ramanashramam, reading at the ashram library, making new friends and spending time at the Arunachala Animal Sanctuary & Rescue Shelter.

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What is an ashram? Sri Ramanasramam and others

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Photo of entrance to Sri Ramanasramam

As I wrote about my experience of the Sri Ramanasramam (in Tamil; Sri Ramana Ashram is the Sanskrit version), it occurred to me that some readers of this blog aren’t exactly sure what an ashram is. I’ve been to just a few, so my experience is pretty limited, but I’ll try to explain as best as I know how.

An ashram is usually dedicated to a guru and his or her teachings, and normally is created organically as people begin to hear of the guru and come to visit and receive their teachings. Eventually, the number of visitors becomes large enough that someone has to start organizing food, sleeping arrangements, time with the guru, pujas (worship ceremonies), and all the other activities of a spiritual community.

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Navaratri at the Ramana ashram

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Navaratri_Chitra_kolam
Chitra always makes the most elaborate, free-flowing kolams.

We didn’t plan it this way, but we are lucky enough to be here at the ashram during Navaratri. It is a nine-night festival of the goddess Durga, celebrating her in all her forms, and signs of celebration are everywhere. The ashram grounds are decorated with banana leaves and flowers, and so are homes and shops. Pale green pumpkins are split, their flesh dyed red, and these are placed at the entrances to gates, doors and shops. Fresh kolams appear every morning in front of every entrance – homes, shops, and the ashram itself.

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Settling in Tiruvannamalai and the Ramana ashram

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View of the first hall you see when you enter the Sri Ramanasramam. From Wikipedia: By Rajachandraa - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=30756557
View of the first hall you see when you enter the Sri Ramanasramam. From Wikipedia: By Rajachandraa – Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=30756557

After two full days in Chennai, arriving in Tiruvannamalai was a real refreshment. As the bus traveled through the countryside, it was wonderful to see so much green growth. We both remembered this part of Tamil Nadu as a dry, brown place with occasional patches of green, but it’s much more cultivated now, and the area has been carefully reforested.

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